Frequently Asked Questions
Can’t find what you’re looking for? Try searching for it here.
Stick down parquet is a very intricate job and can be difficult to get right, which is why we recommend sourcing a professional fitter if you’re going for stick down parquet. If you’re going for an engineered locking system parquet, you will need to lock the boards on top of an underlay – exactly like a normal engineered floor. The only different is the direction of the boards and the fact that you have alternating boards in most parquet designs.
Laminate flooring is installed by locking the boards on top of an underlay – this is known as a floating floor. You should start in a corner, working left to right. We would recommend using expansion spacers to ensure you leave the 10mm expansion gap around the room. We would recommend staggering the joints to ensure your floor looks natural and not too uniform.
There are 3 methods of installing Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT). The first is glue down. These tiles are stuck down directly to the subfloor, much like the installation of traditional roll vinyl. The second option is similar to laminate installation. This is locking system, meaning you lock the tiles on top of an underlay as a floating floor. The last type is looselay, a new innovative way on installing vinyl. This is where the back of the boards has a grip backing that keeps them in place.
Solid wood floor can be installed in 3 main ways. You can opt for the nailing method and nail the boards directly to the subfloor. You can also choose to glue the floor directly to the subfloor with an adhesive. The last option is to use our Peel and Stick Underlay, which involves sticking the boards onto an adhesive-coated underlay. We do also offer the clip installation with our Junckers solid boards, which is where you use clips on the underside of the boards to secure them together.
Installing engineered flooring is normally done by locking the boards on top of an underlay – this is called a floating floor. If your floor is 18mm+ in thickness, you will have to glue the tongue and groove joints to ensure they are secure. There are other methods of securing engineered floor, but we would recommend using the locking joint as it’s the most straightforward.
This can be hard to get right, and we would only recommend this for solid, engineered and laminate floors. You will need to install the floor as ‘treads’, ‘risers’ and finish the steps off with a stair nosing. It’s important to remember vinyl and some carpets are not advised on the stairs.
We would advise not to install your floor underneath your kitchen units, but up to the edges of the units/appliances. This will save you time and money, and heavy appliances can give a risk of the floor buckling.
Undercutting the door frames allows a clean finished look. This is done by using an offcut of the floor and the underlay to template the height needed to take off the doorframes. Then, using a tenon saw or multi tool, cut away the bottom of the door frame. Next, you should slide the boards through, however due to many products being locking systems, the locking joint would need to be shaved off and the boards glued together (just in the doorways). Another option is to enter door thresholds, this allows natural expansion and is a must on most floors if the run is more than 12m (please refer to specific manufacturer’s installation guide).
Most design-orientated experts suggest you should lay the flooring running away from the main light source, which in most instances means running it from the front door, straight to the back of the house if you’re installing an entire floor. In actual fact, there is no right or wrong direction to lay your floor, it’s all down to personal preference.
We do have a system of professional fitters that are specialists in each areas of floor we sell. These fitters aren’t employed directly by us, but each fitter on this network is trusted and reliable. If you are interested in our fitting service and a free quote, please call us on 0800 999 8100.
We would recommend using a cleaner specifically made for your chosen floor with a lightly damp mop. We would strongly advise against the use of steam mops on any of our floors.
We would advise using the Quickstep Cleaning Kit that includes the Quickstep mop, expertly designed for cleaning laminate floors effectively. This kit comes with the cleaner, the mop, the microfibre cloth and a cleaning spray.
We would point you towards either the Kahrs Floor Cleaner or the Quickstep Oil Care to effectively clean your wood floor without damaging it. The Kahrs Cleaner is used by diluting in water and applied with a lightly damp mop. For oiled wood, we would recommend using the Quickstep Oil Care which needs to be diluted like the Kahrs cleaner.
We would recommend using our specifically designed cleaners diluted in water as per the directions on the packaging. This should be done with a lightly damp mop to ensure you aren’t being too harsh on the floor. We would recommend against using any bleach-based or soap-based products on your vinyl floor.
We would recommend sweeping/vacuuming your laminate floor regularly to ensure dust isn’t settling into the texture of the boards. We would also advise to use one of our recommended cleaners to effectively clean the floor without damaging it. Be sure to use our cleaner on a lightly damp mop, and not to use any abrasive materials like a scouring pad.
This advice can be used for all wood floors, including solid, engineered and parquets. We would advise to use one of our recommended cleaners diluted in water, and to wipe along the grain of the boards to ensure you don’t wear down the natural texture of the boards. It’s best to avoid high heels or any other pointy objects near the floor as it can ruin the finish of the wood.
If your vinyl floor is looking dull and scratched, it may be time to re-finish your vinyl floor. This is done by using a floor stripper to remove the current finish and then re-applying 2 fresh coats of finish to make the vinyl look brand new again!
If your laminate floor does happen to get a noticeable scratch/dent in the surface, we would recommend using the a Repair Kit to fill in the imperfection. This is done by using a melting tool to melt and mix wax colours to match the laminate and filling the dent/scratch.
This advice is applicable for solid, engineered and parquet floors. If your wood has a scratch/dent in the surface and is an oiled floor, we would recommend applying some oil in an attempt to dull the damage. If this doesn’t work, you will likely have to sand the floor down and re-oil it. If you have a lacquered finish, you would have to sand down the current finish and re-finish it too. We do sell repair kits that can help with minor damages.
LVT and Laminate can be perceived as similar and they do have a lot of differences, but the main differences are the boards themselves. Most LVTs are installed by sticking them straight down, which you can’t do with laminate. It’s also important to remember most laminates aren't water resistant (except our waterproof laminates) whereas all LVT are completely waterproof.
This all depends on your personal preference of design, installation method and preparation. Stick down is more design-friendly, but looselay and locking system LVT floors are easier to install and often are more forgiving to discrepancies in the subfloor.
Engineered and Solid look identical once laid, but the composition of the boards is different and mean they have different versatility rates. Engineered wood can go in most rooms except for bathrooms, whereas solid can only go in living spaces and the stairs.
We would recommend using either Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT) or Laminate flooring in the kitchen. We also have waterproof laminates that are even better than regular laminate for the kitchen. Engineered, solid and carpet are not advised for use in the kitchen.
Luxury Vinyl Tiles and waterproof laminate are perfect for the bathroom as they’re completely waterproof and hard-wearing. We would definitely recommend against using any form of wood or carpet in the bathroom, as the moisture can damage these floors.
The complexity of measuring your room normally depends on the shape of the room. We recommend splitting the room into rectangles and calculate the area of each rectangle by multiplying the length and width together. We also advise to add 5-10% wastage depending on which floor you go for.
It’s vital to make sure your new floor is suitable for the room you’re installing it in. We would recommend keeping wood away from moisture and in rooms like bathrooms, opt for vinyl or waterproof laminate. Keep vinyl off stairs, and solid wood away from basements and conservatories.
The main things you should consider are; the room it’s going in, the size of the room, if you have underfloor heating, how it’s installed and how long it will last.
Commercial grade floors should be used in commercial/business spaces. Most of our floor types have certain ranges that are suitable for commercial use due to the thickness, finish or wear layer.
Most of our floors can be used with underfloor heating, regarding you use the correct adhesive / underlay with the floor that’s designed to withstand the temperature. You will also require some form of Damp proof membrane (DPM) between the heating and your new floor, to protect the floor from the moisture.
Acclimatising is essential for your floor to adjust to the humidity of your home. We would recommend leaving the floors in their packs flat on the floor in the room they’re going to be installed in. It can take from 2 days – 2 weeks depending on the floor type you go for.
We would recommend using the Quickstep Incizo Doorbar with our laminate floors, as it is designed to be used as a threshold trim, reducer/ramp trim and an edge trim. Quickstep manufacture them to match all of their laminate floors, so they’re sure to match your floor perfectly.
Beading (also called scotia) is designed to bridge the gap between your floor and skirting board, but which one you opt for is entirely up to you! You can choose a white beading to match the skirting boards, or you can go for a match to the floor itself. It’s all about your personal preference.
Stair nosing is used to finish off the stops and improve the overall safety of the staircase/steps. It also gives a cleaner finish to each step. We have different types of nosing, some that lock into the boards and others that have to be attached to a stair base.
In short, flooring trims are designed to bridge the gap between two floors, a floor and a door, or the edge of a step. We have trims to bridge the gap between same height floors and several different height floors too.
To figure this out you’ll need to know how many boxes of which vinyl floor you’re going for. Then, you have to use one of our formulas depending on the floor you’ve chosen and its tile size.
Underlays are essential to keep the floor stable and to set a level base to install your floor on top of. If you have a concrete subfloor or underfloor heating, you’ll need an underlay with a Damp-Proof Membrane (DPM). If you have a wooden subfloor, you can often use a simply foam underlay, but we sell an array of options designed to reduce sound etc.
We have underlays for all of our floor types designed to reduce sound. For laminate/engineered, we would recommend the Natura Gold or the Quickstep Transitsound. For solid, we would recommend the WorkProPlus, and for LVT we would recommend either Karndean Versilay or Quickstep Livyn Basic.
We offer next day delivery on most of our products, but if your product is cut to order or has to be ordered in it may take a little longer. It can also depend on where you are situated, for example the highlands of Scotland may take a day longer to arrive.
If you’re not in to accept your delivery, we can normally ask the drivers to wait for 10 minutes if someone can make it to the address within that time. If not, the goods will go back to local depot and you will need to contact us to re-arrange the delivery. You may be charged a re-delivery fee.
We ask you to check over the packs upon delivery to identify any obvious damages. If there are any damages at this point, sign for the goods as damaged and give us a call straight away. If you notice there are damages after opening the package that causes the goods to be unusable, give us a call and we will organise replacements.
International delivery charges depend on the weight and dimensions of the shipment and the location. To get a quote for an international shipment please talk to our sales team on +44 1842 769333.
Delivery to mainland UK is free on all orders over £199 (excluding Junckers), and £20 for orders under £199. If you’re offshore (this includes Channel Islands, Guernsey etc.) your order may incur extra delivery charges.
Delivery to non-mainland UK may incur extra delivery charges. This is calculated based on the dimensions and weight of the shipment and the location. Please contact our sales team for a quote on off-shore delivery charges.
We do offer a range of finance options depending on the order value and the products you are ordering, approval subject to status. There is no deposit required, and most applications are approved instantly via our online order system.
We accept a wide range of payment methods over the phone, instore and online. All Visa, Mastercard, Maestro and American Express debit/credit cards are accepted. We also offer finance options via V12 Retail Finance to help spread the costs, approval subject to status.