Installation instructions for Kährs wood floors with woodloc® joints for installation
on level and fixed surfaces
Complete installation instructions are provided in every other bundle. Use Kährs'
installation tools.
Preparations:
Do not forget the vapour barrier if the installation requires this.
First calculate how many floor boards are required. If the last row is narrower
than 30 mm, saw the first row of boards as well. When installing a floor with woodloc®
joints, the work is facilitated if the installation starts at the long side that
has most doors. If there are doors along the short side of the room begin each row
of boards at these. The boards can be installed both from left and right.
The maximum floor width is 18 metres (Linnea 12 m). Contact Kährs if the floor is
wider.
1.
Begin in one corner and install from left to right with the bottom lip
out towards the room. The long side distance to the wall can be adjusted later when
three rows have been installed.
Remember that it's often simpler to start the row of boards at the door.
2.
Press the next floor board at an angle to the first and lay it down.
Continue in the same way with the rest of the first row.
3.
Cut the final board in the first row to the correct length and begin the next row
with the piece that was left over. The boards' end joints are staggered by at least
500 mm (at least 300 mm when installing 1.2 metre boards and 7 mm Linnea).
4.
Press the floor board at an angle to the board in front. Knock lightly with the
hand block while carefully pressing the board down.
5.
Push in a Kährs installation key under the board you have already installed at the
short end.
6.
Press in the next board's short end at an angle and lay down the long side.
7.
Remove the installation key and knock lightly with the hand block on the long side
while at the same time carefully pressing the board down and it will move into place
more easily.
8.
The floor's distance to the walls can be adjusted when three rows have been laid.
Place keys between the floor and wall. The keys must be removed once the installation
of the floor is complete.
9.
The first floor row must sometimes be adjusted to a crooked wall.
Draw the wall's contour on the floorboards. Then loosen the boards
in the first row by gripping the long side, pulling upwards while, at the
same time, knocking lightly against the joint. Saw.
10.
Replace the sawn floorboards from left to right. First angle in the short side and
then the long side as previously described under items 5–7. Place keys between wall
and floor.
11.
Drill holes in the board for heater pipes. The holes should be at least 20 mm wider
than the pipe's diameter. Saw as shown in the picture. When the floor has been installed,
glue the sawn-out piece and cover the holes with pipe collars or twin roses.
12.
If you need to cut a door liner use a floorboard as an underlay to get the exact
height. If you need to saw lengthwise protect the board's joint with a sawn-off
piece from a short end that can be inserted in the joint.
13.
This is how to saw the last board row to the correct width. Lay the last board on
top of the next-to-last board with an approximately 5 mm allowance from the wall.
Mark the saw cut with the help of a piece of board without locking moulding. Install
the sawn board.
Do the same with the next one. Fit the skirting boards. These must not be pressed
down so that the floor is locked. When making the transition to another room use
level mouldings or connection mouldings.
14.
The boards can be installed from all directions if required. This facilitates installation
around doors, for example.
Proceed as follows if you cannot gain access to angle the board under a door liner
or lowfitting radiator, for example.
a) Cut away about 2/3 of the locking moulding.
b) Glue. Push the board into position.
Woodloc® cannot be installed with end joints against a long side.
If you plan to do more building in the room, remember to protect the floor with
a material that allows moisture through such as Kährs protective paper.
A tip: Sometimes it is necessary to push floor boards into position (long side
or short side). This applies, for example, at doors or other difficult locations
where the board needs to slide into place. When a board needs to be knocked in the
longitudinal direction, cut a small piece of a board end which can later be fitted
into the joint. This protects the board end from damage.